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There
are two ways to bring the front wheel into the air: Clutch wheelies
and Power wheelies – each has its own purpose and advantage.
The
Power Wheelie: For a beginner, this is the easiest and safest
way to learn how to wheelie your motorcycle. A power wheelie takes more
time to raise the front wheel, thus consuming more RPM’s because
you need to keep accelerating to keep the front wheel in the air. However,
when learning power wheelies, you should not be concerned with how long
you can ride them. In order to do a power wheelie (considering you have
a bike of adequate power: 600cc or more), you need to be cruising at
or slightly below your power band, which usually falls between 4k-7k
RPM’s. Next, roll on the throttle as if you were going to accelerate
quickly, roll of completely, and roll back on ½-3/4 throttle
(this should all take about 1 second). This method induces a natural
“bouncing” of the front forks which will ease the process
of bringing the front wheel off the ground. Some higher cc bikes do
need to bounce at all. Remember, start slow and work up to it –
no one gets it the first time. After experimenting with different RPM’s
and roll on/off timing, something should ‘click.’ As with
most stunts, timing is EVERYTHING! *Be aware that once you bring the
bike at or near the balance point, you will need to let off the throttle
in order to keep from flipping over backwards, but not too much to bring
the front back down, this part is what takes the most practice. Start
in first gear and work up to second.
The
Clutch Wheelie: While learning this method, you will probably
eat up your clutch. However, when executed properly, it will put very
little stress and abuse on your clutch and drive chain. Once you are
familiar with popping wheelies, this method reduces the amount of RPM’s
used in order to get the front wheel in the air (thus, you are able
to ride them further without achieving the balance point). Some will
say that clutch wheelies are more predictable. Clutch wheelies instantly
bring the front wheel to a general height, in which you can simply ‘fine-tune’
that height with a slight increase or decrease of the throttle. However,
for a beginner, this method will not only scare the crap out of you,
but will it be very inconsistent. To do a clutch wheelie (assuming your
bike has adequate power-as described above), cruise at or slightly beneath
your power band. The next steps occur almost simultaneously:
1) Roll on, as you would under hard acceleration
2) Slip the clutch (fan it – bring it in so it beings to disengage
and let it back out-fast!)
3) Stay on the throttle until the desired height is achieved.
Be
aware, it will come up quick! 2nd Gear is the best gear to try these
in as 1st will be very sensitive.
Tips
on different types of wheelies:
**With
all wheelies – COVER THE REAR BRAKE!!!!!
SIT-DOWN
WHEELIES:
-Powering in to it or clutching it, you may need to ‘tug’
on the bars in order to help the front wheel into the air.
-Sit as far back as the seat allows, transferring as much of your weight
back as possible – this will make the balance point lower and
get the front wheel in the air easier.
STAND-UP
WHEELIES:
-Most of us are not used to standing up on our pegs, especially while
trying to do a wheelie. The scariest part with learning these is getting
them up. As silly as it may seem, try to keep your butt as far BACK
and UP as possible. This will look funny, but will assure that you have
your weight transferred towards the back. Remember to keep your weight
on your legs; if your weight is on your hands, you will inadvertently
be putting downward pressure on the bars, keeping them from rising.
Also, weight on your feet makes the bike easier to steer. To steer left,
transfer your weight to your left peg and act as though you are ‘pushing’
the rear tire out from under you to the right.
-Stand-ups have the most potential for tank-slappers, so when you are
learning, get in the habit of setting the front wheel down completely
straight.
SHIFTING
DURING A WHEELIE:
- The easiest and safest way to shift during a wheelie is to shift without
the clutch. To do this, (if you are in 1st gear), run to a high RPM
so that when you shift, you are not shifting directly to the early power
band of the 2nd gear (which can/will flip you if you are not careful),
apply a hard and steady pressure up on the shifter, and when you are
ready to shift, quickly chop and then get back on the throttle. The
lack of resistance by the engine will allow you to shift easily (because
the engine offers so much resistance, applying hard upward pressure
on the shifter will not cause it shift unless the resistance is released.
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